A cafe on the banks of the Rapt river in Chitwan, Nepal. The river serves as the border between the national park and its buffer zone. Image by Abhaya Raj Joshi. The town had long eyed the Jaldevi ...

It’s not a pleasant feeling being charged by a colossal wild animal. I was in Chitwan National Park, Nepal. Our guide had walked us to a quiet spot on the edge of a clearing, where we waited ...